Gwangju, May 27-29, 2023

Varied Tit Sittiparus varius

Yellow-throated Bunting Emberiza elegans

Gakwha Rerservoir looks peaceful...

...but turn around and this is the view

Gusi Beach

  Gwangju’s been a bit of a bust, bird-wise, but I’ve been using it as a chance to catch a breath and recharge for the next phase. I’ve been based in the northeast of town, due to the proximity of Gakwha Reservoir. This is where Ruddy Kingfishers were reported on numerous occasions at this time of year, about ten years ago. I’ve been to the reservoir for the past three dawns, with no sign of Ruddys. Could be they’re just late this year. Another explanation could be that this spot is no longer suitable for the shy species. The trails were quite active even at dawn, and by 7:30am, the narrow trails around the reservoir and into the hills beyond were jammed with people. Many of these folks were blaring music or talk radio from the ubiquitous and uniquely Korean hip-mounted ‘trail radios.’

  Seems that birding intel is more perishable in Korea than elsewhere. That’s because a year in Korea is a decade, development-wise. Perhaps ten years ago, the hills beyond the reservoir were quiet in the mornings. Perhaps the entire neighbourhood of domino apartments around the reservoir, and new motorway were also not there ten years ago, and it was relatively quiet rural land. And perhaps the Ruddy Kingfishers have pushed deeper in the ever-shrinking Korean countryside, in search of a true ‘morning calm.’

  Several Fairy Pittas were heard singing from distant valleys beyond the reservoir, and it was nice to see my first Japanese Pygmy Woodpeckers, Vinous-throated Parrotbills, and Eurasian Jays of the trip. The birds of the forest all seemed busy building and tending to nests.

  In the afternoon of May 27, I met up with local birder Jin-Hung Lee, and we drove out to Gusi Beach on the west coast - a one-hour trip that would have taken me almost four hours and several bus transfers to do on my own. We searched for recently reported Chinese Crested Terns, but our time there was limited, and we were not successful. There are only about 200 individuals left (in the world), so it would have been a treat to see one. Next time, let’s hope.

Onward tomorrow.